"i ♥ to serf"

Look at that!

I went surfing. Yes, I, who cannot swim a length of the CamCourt
swimming pool without having a great white shark panic attack, went
surfing. In the actual ocean.

I am happy to report that there were no shark attacks to be had.
Instead, camels roamed free along the beach. It was a veritable surfer's
paradise, that beach. It was all but abandoned, with huge waves and not
too sunny. Alas, there were no real surfers present that day except for
our teacher, who did not surf because...

He was high. So, wisely I thought, our long-haired Chinese instructor
with the fairy tattoo on his back remained safely on shore to give us tips.
I would stagger up to him sand-scratched, board-bruised and wave-
battered and he would advise me thus: "Go! Go! With power."

So I went. I got lucky and caught a few waves quite by accident and
decided that half of surfing is being in the right place at the right time
and the other half is paddling. Also that Amy really is Superwoman.
And that the ocean can be downright terrifying.

We shooed aside the pigs and geese so we could put our boards back in
the shed at this quality establishment...

Lunch and dinner, respectively.

... and drove home past rice paddies and stunning tropic scenery
listening to reggae. All in all a good day.

No comments: